Beard on Birds
By: James Beard
Rating: 4.5 of 5
This cookbook is rich with classic poultry recipes. They are the recipes that I grew up with put forward in a simple, no-nonsense approach. This is not a coffee table type book as there are no pictures other than some simple hand-drawings. This is for the serious cook – those who are just beginning as well as those who have years of experience behind them. The original version of this book was released in 1944 and it has undergone many changes in the various updates since then. Reading the forewards to the book give the reader its history and funny anecdotes.
In looking through the recipes, I was struck by the thought that something “old” is “new” again. We have gotten so fancy in our ingredients and our cooking methods that some of the recipes of the past have gotten lost because of their simplicity. These are special meals that are easy to master once you master a few techniques. The chapter on sauces is especially useful – simple bechamel, hollandaise, sauce bernaise, and fresh mayonnaise – they are all described and are used elsewhere in the book.
I loved the herb mixtures that are used. While I like a chili pepper in the proper recipe, so many recipes now contain some form of a chili pepper (dried, smoked, fresh, ground, etc.) that it makes it difficult for the herbs to have their voice. It is wonderful to see tarragon used – it is an herb that seems to be getting lost and yet it has such a wonderful flavor.
The vast majority of the book is devoted to chicken – which makes sense. It is the poultry that is most readily recognized and purchased in the local grocery. There are chapters on turkey, duck, and then a variety of interesting other poultry for the more adventuresome cook. I was extremely interested in the duck recipes as I have recently acquired a taste for it and wanted to try some new (to me) recipes. I have also wanted to learn how to cook goose and was pleased to find a chapter on that bird.
The chicken recipes are where we see the vast technique of cooking used. From simple chicken salad to deviled squab chicken with bernaise to chicken livers – there are recipes for so many fairly easy to make dishes with easily found ingredients. I immediately made the poached chicken with dumplings using Nellie Cox’s recipe for dumplings as well as chicken legs with yogurt. Both were delightful to make and even more wonderful to eat.
In looking through the book, I only came across one item that was not included – and it is really a side dish more than a poultry dish. In the chapter on stuffings, I could not find one that used corn bread. As I have my own, it was not a huge loss, but too bad we did not get Mr. Beard’s take on it. That is a small omission when compared to the vast array of what is included.
I loved this version of the cookbook and look forward to using it for years to come. I will certainly be purchasing my own copy of the cookbook as it is one that I think should be a staple in a serious cook’s kitchen.
I received temporary digital copy of this book from the publisher, Open Road Media, via Netgalley
This cookbook is rich with classic poultry recipes. They are the recipes that I grew up with put forward in a simple, no-nonsense approach. This is not a coffee table type book as there are no pictures other than some simple hand-drawings. This is for the serious cook – those who are just beginning as well as those who have years of experience behind them. The original version of this book was released in 1944 and it has undergone many changes in the various updates since then. Reading the forewards to the book give the reader its history and funny anecdotes.